Walk into any bedsheet store — online or offline — and you will be hit with numbers. 300TC! 400TC! 1000TC! GSM 180! Double-ply! Sateen weave! Most of these numbers are used as marketing tools, and many are genuinely misleading. As manufacturers who weave and finish these fabrics ourselves, here is what we think you should actually pay attention to.

Thread Count (TC): Useful, But Often Inflated

Thread count is the number of threads (warp + weft) per square inch of fabric. A 200TC sheet has 200 threads per square inch. In theory, higher thread count means a denser, smoother fabric. In practice, the number is frequently manipulated. Manufacturers use multi-ply yarns (two or three thin yarns twisted together) and count each strand separately, turning a genuine 200TC sheet into a claimed 400TC or 600TC sheet. The fabric does not actually have more threads — it has the same threads, counted differently.

What matters is single-ply thread count. A genuine 200TC-300TC single-ply cotton sheet is excellent quality for Indian conditions. Above 300TC, you start to sacrifice breathability for smoothness — the weave becomes so dense that air circulation decreases. For satin weaves, 250TC-350TC is the sweet spot for combining lustre with comfort.

Our honest advice: ignore any thread count claim above 600TC. At that level, either multi-ply counting is happening, or the fabric is so dense that it defeats the purpose of cotton’s natural breathability.

GSM: The Number That Actually Tells You Something

GSM stands for grams per square metre — it tells you how much the fabric weighs. Unlike thread count, GSM is very difficult to fake because it is a straightforward weight measurement. A 120 GSM bedsheet is lighter and more breathable; a 180 GSM sheet is heavier and more substantial. For dohars, 200-300 GSM is typical for a three-layer piece.

Here is a practical guide: 100-130 GSM — lightweight, ideal for summer bedsheets. 140-170 GSM — mid-weight, good year-round. 180-220 GSM — heavy, best for winter or AC rooms. For dohars: 200-280 GSM for summer, 300-400 GSM for winter quilts.

At ABH, we GSM-test every batch. If you are comparing two sheets at similar price points, pick the one with the GSM that matches your climate and preference — it tells you more than thread count ever will.

Ply: Single vs Multi

Ply refers to the number of yarn strands twisted together to make each thread. Single-ply yarn produces a lighter, more breathable fabric with a softer hand-feel. Multi-ply (2-ply, 3-ply) yarn produces a denser, heavier fabric that feels sturdier but breathes less. Single-ply is preferred for bedsheets in warm climates. Multi-ply is useful for upholstery, heavy curtains, and winter-weight bedding.

The important thing: when a brand claims “400TC double-ply,” they are often counting a 200TC base fabric with each 2-ply yarn counted twice. Read the fine print. A 200TC single-ply sheet is often superior in feel and breathability to a claimed 400TC double-ply sheet.

Weave Type: The Overlooked Factor

Percale (one-over-one-under) produces a crisp, matte finish — this is your classic cotton bedsheet feel. Sateen (four-over-one-under) produces a smooth, lustrous surface — this is the satin feel. Twill (diagonal pattern) produces a structured, durable fabric — think denim. For bedsheets, percale and sateen are the main choices; twill is more common in furnishing fabrics.

The Bottom Line

When shopping for bedsheets, prioritise GSM and weave type over thread count. Ask whether the thread count is single-ply or multi-ply. And remember: the best bedsheet is the one that matches your climate, your room setup, and the kind of sleep you want. Numbers are guides, not guarantees.